Staff on Tour: My 7-Day Journey into Canada’s Wild North

Join our staff member Bree as she trades city streets for Churchill’s subarctic magic: kayaking alongside curious belugas, locking eyes with a polar bear, and chasing the Northern Lights on an unforgettable Canada adventure tour.

Some trips tick a box, while others change your perspective entirely. My week in Churchill in Manitoba, Canada, a remote town on the edge of Hudson Bay and famously known as the polar bear capital of the world, was definitely one of those rare experiences that stayed with me long after I unpacked. This small northern town is a gem for wildlife lovers, a place where polar bears and beluga whales converge in one of nature’s most remarkable settings. 

While there are many reasons to visit Canada, its wildlife and raw natural beauty are what truly set it apart, making it one of the world’s premier destinations for those, like me, who love to see animals in their natural habitat. From spotting grizzly bears and moose in Canada’s national parks like Banff and Jasper, to whale watching and seal spotting cruising through Alaska’s Inside Passage, Canada offers unforgettable encounters at every turn.

In this Churchill travel blog, I traded city life for the raw wilderness of the subarctic, embarking on a seven-day adventure filled with gasp-out-loud wildlife moments, spontaneous side-trips, and the kind of quiet reflection only the tundra can inspire. Here’s a day-by-day account of my journey as it unfolded.

Getting there

The journey kicked off with a long-haul flight from Melbourne, Australia—one of those travel days that feels like it’ll never end, especially when flying from the Southern Hemisphere! To keep my jet lag in check, I used the Timeshifter app, which told me when to sleep, when to get some light, and when to have a coffee—it worked wonders.

After a smooth transit through Vancouver and a final, three-hour flight to Winnipeg, I arrived tired but buzzing with anticipation and that feeling you only get when you’re about to do something completely out of your comfort zone.

This was the official start of my polar bear and beluga whales adventure, a week-long tour I’d been dreaming about for ages. My hotel, the Grand Airport Hotel, was just across the road from the terminal, so I was checked in and resting within minutes. A few hours of proper sleep, and I was ready for the real adventure to begin.

First glimpse of the wild north

After breakfast, the day started with a quick complimentary shuttle ride to the Calm Air hangar. After a two-and-a-half-hour flight over what felt like endless wilderness, we arrived in Churchill. No roads lead in or out; it’s truly a fly-in frontier town and something I haven't experienced before. A welcome bag with our itinerary and a lanyard with our group name set the tone for the organised, yet flexible, nature of the tour.

We settled in with a delicious buffet lunch followed by a three-hour city tour that included a visit to the Polar Bear Holding Facility (also known as Polar Bear Jail), a secure compound where troublesome bears are held before being safely released back into the wild. It’s something you don’t see every day, and hearing how locals co-exist with their polar bear neighbours was fascinating.

That night, after a stunning a la carte dinner, I put my name on the sign-up sheet to be woken up if the Northern Lights made an appearance—there was no way I was going to sleep through them! At around 10:30 pm, a knock on the door sent my heart racing. A local guide drove us to a secluded spot where the aurora’s ethereal greens and purples danced across the sky. It was a surreal and unforgettable welcome to the north, one of those travel moments that stays with you forever.

Belugas in my backyard

Today was all about the whales. In the morning, we boarded a small zodiac boat on the Churchill River. The beluga whale zodiac tour was intimate and thrilling, with only eight people per boat. Hundreds of whales were out, their smooth white bodies flashing through the water. They were playful and curious, drawn to the bubbles from the engine, swimming right up to the back of the boat.

In the afternoon, I signed up for the optional kayaking tour and this is where the real magic happened. Gliding silently across the water, the only sound was the soft splash of my paddle and the occasional exhale from a beluga surfacing nearby. These gentle giants came incredibly close, with some even responding to my humming—a helpful tip from the guides, who explained that belugas are drawn to melodic sounds. One large male swam directly beneath my single kayak, a heart-stopping moment that left me in awe of their immense size and gentle nature.

At one point, I locked eyes with one through the water. It felt like a moment of real connection, fleeting but nonetheless unforgettable. Tonight was the second night in a row I went to bed with a smile on my face, something I’m quickly learning comes naturally in this part of the world.

A polar bear sighting

We set out on a six-hour Hudson Bay coastal tour, scanning the horizon for the King of the Arctic: a polar bear! The weather was grey and a bit choppy, but the anticipation kept us warm. A simple and delicious lunch was served on board, and as we cruised, it didn’t take long to spot a polar bear! He was on the land, but within moments, he ambled down to the water and went for a swim right in front of the boat. 

Watching this magnificent creature so relaxed and at home in the wild was a breathtaking experience. Polar bears are excellent swimmers, and it was really fascinating to see him glide so effortlessly through the water despite his size. The boat’s underwater viewing platform was a cool feature, and although the water was a bit murky to see clearly, we could hear the haunting echoes of beluga whales singing  through a sonar speaker.

That moment—polar bear above, belugas below—felt like the perfect culmination of a true polar bear trip in Canada. It was a true “pinch me” moment.

Weather woes and wild moments

Today was meant to be a free day to explore, but a sudden storm meant our Tundra Buggy tour got moved forward a day. The local guides were excellent and made an effort to fit everything in, even with the last-minute change. We bundled up tight and set out, hopeful but realistic since polar bears tend to hunker down in bad weather. Who wants to walk around in the cold, rain and wind? 

No bears appeared, but the vast tundra and the few tough local birds braving the wind made for a quiet, reflective day. It was a solid reminder that on wildlife tours, you must roll with whatever Mother Nature throws at you.

A last-minute adventure

On our final morning in Churchill, with a few hours to spare before our flight, our guide surprised us with an impromptu driving tour. Yesterday’s weather had cleared beautifully, and the coastal drive was stunning. While we didn’t spot any polar bears, the peaceful scenery was a nice contrast to the stormy day before. There’s something so soothing about just taking in the land. 

After a final lunch at the lodge, we caught our charter flight back to Winnipeg. That evening, a few of us shared an Uber downtown to check out The Forks Market, a lively spot full of great food and shops. From tacos to handmade gifts, it was a fun reminder of the diversity Canada has to offer, even in its urban centres. It was the perfect way to ease back from wilderness mode to city life.

Homeward bound

As the sun came up over Winnipeg, I checked out of the hotel and took the short walk to the airport. The final leg of the journey felt a little surreal. I’d come face-to-face with beluga whales, caught sight of a polar bear in the wild, and watched the Northern Lights swirl across the night sky. 

This trip was more than just a tour. It was a deep, unexpected connection to nature that I’ll carry with me for a long time. It’s a reminder of how small we are, too, in the best possible way.

Sitting on the plane, I found myself thinking about the week. What surprised me most was the strong sense of community in Churchill, and just how wildly unpredictable the weather and wilderness can be. The experience wasn’t about ticking boxes; it was about embracing the unknown and learning to go with the flow.

My biggest tip for anyone heading to Canada in search of wildlife? Layers are non-negotiable and come prepared for anything! 

I’d recommend Canada to solo travellers, photographers, or anyone craving a truly authentic Canada adventure tour. This Churchill travel blog barely scratches the surface of the magic I experienced throughout the week, but I hope it inspires you to seek out your own magical wildlife encounters in Canada.

Inspired to visit Canada like Bree? Our Wonders of Canada tour includes visits to Jasper and Banff national parks, an exciting stay at Knight Inlet Lodge in the heart of Great Bear Rainforest, and a Rocky Mountaineer experience. Alternatively, add a magical Alaska cruise and Denali National Park stay to your itinerary on our Inspiring Canadian Rockies tour. View our full range of Canada tours here.