First Impressions Of Georgia - Landscapes, Culture And Dumplings

There’s no country quite like Georgia, with its incredible history, geography, culture, and legendary hospitality

With its stunning landscapes, ancient history, and myriad cultural influences, Georgia is full of surprises even for the most seasoned traveller. Its position along the Silk Road meant that it was at the heart of many converging cultures, from Europe and neighbouring Russia all the way to East Asia and beyond. In Greek legends, Georgia was the setting for the famous tale of Jason and the Argonauts. Today, its capital, Tbilisi, is a hotspot for innovation, street culture, and design, all jostling for space alongside magnificent examples of different types of age-old architecture.

We spoke with an American/Georgian married couple for a firsthand look at getting up close and personal with this vibrant Eastern European country. Accomplished musician Pat Mangan and classically-trained dancer Natia Rtveliashvili Mangan told us about Pat’s first trip to Georgia to meet Natia’s family.

Tell me about your first trip to Georgia, and your first impressions.

Pat: My first trip was going to meet my [now] wife Natia's extended family for the first time! I didn't know what to expect. When I landed, Natia was there to meet me…along with about a dozen Georgian guys, including her father, brothers, uncles, cousins! It was slightly overwhelming at first, but it turns out this is common enough, and was their way of extending the biggest welcome they possibly could. Georgians will drop everything and leave the house at 3am to drive you to or from your flight. So the short answer is that my first impressions were all about the amazing hospitality, for which Georgian people are known the world over. We went straight from the airport to an amazing al fresco restaurant. It was my first taste of the local food and wine, which I will also never forget. Years later I am still battling to keep my addictions to Georgian dumplings (khinkali) and cheese pastries (khachapuri) in check. And no meal, especially one welcoming a visitor to Georgia, would be complete without bottomless carafes of local (often homemade) wine. Practically every other person makes their own wine. The drinking culture is centred around a lengthy series of heartfelt toasts, led by a tamada, the toast-master who dictates the flow of the evening.

What’s something you think that not many people know about Georgia?

Pat: Georgia is a land of amazing contrasts. You will find some of the most ancient world heritage sites on the planet. Some of the art, architecture, landscapes, language, music, dance, and cultural traditions have hardly changed over the course of hundreds, if not thousands of years. At the same time, Georgia is at the absolute cutting edge. The avant-garde fashion scene has been setting trends for the last several years, Demna Gvasalia, creative director of Gucci [known as Demma], being one of the most prominent Georgian-born designers on the scene. Similarly, the underground electronic music scene in Tbilisi has quickly grown to rival that of Berlin's. The city has become a world-renowned clubbing mecca, with homegrown techno producers and DJs paving their own way.

Tbilisi's architecture is a fascinating and beautiful hodgepodge of old wooden houses with balconies hanging over cliff sides, brutalist Soviet concrete monolithic structures, and hyper-modern towers of glass and steel. The landscapes and climates of Georgia are similarly diverse, with subtropical climates on the Black Sea around Batumi, where the rainforest meets the sea, and world-class skiing high atop the Caucus Mountains in places like Gudauri and Bakuriani.

Natia, what do you miss most about home?

Natia: I miss my mom's cooking, and Georgian home cooking in general. I would say this would be true for many people who come from Georgia. Food is such a big part of the culture - everyone has a mom or grandma who is an amazing cook. Also, there is a type of bread called shotis puri, which is baked in a tandoor-type clay oven, which never tastes quite the same outside of Georgia. There are many hole-in-the-wall bakeries that make this bread which is a staple of nearly every meal and it is so simple and so incredibly delicious when it's fresh. Another thing I miss are the spontaneous visits that so often occur in Georgia. Friends and relatives drop by completely unannounced, and the next thing you know, a full on celebration is underway. By some miracle, even if there is 'nothing' in the fridge, all of the sudden there is a supra (feast) on the table. Georgians don't plan much, things just kind of happen. There is always food and drink to offer to anyone who steps in the door, from close family to furniture delivery guys. Music is also an important part of the culture and there is always someone at a family gathering who plays guitar or piano and sings.

Any advice for first-time visitors?

Pat: Come hungry and ready for adventure. This place is like nowhere else I've ever visited (and I have been to 40 countries or so). It also has a way of getting under your skin - you will want to go back and explore more. There are so many places to see, people to meet, dishes to try. It is a small enough place, but has so much to offer, and feels exotic and quite unlike anywhere else.